This seems to be a good soloution to keep it from lifting so far. I used adjustable Delrin pads under the rails for the X axis. I am using 3/4" aluminum plate for the base of the Z and it will have an ear at the top rear of this plate that will catch the ball nut. There simply wasn't room between the rails for both the Z and the Y drive line. One on either side of the Gantry to catch the lead screw for the Y axis. Since the machine is so small, it is easy enough to reach it from any side. I think that the rigidity of the Y will be worth the trade off though. One drawback I see is that access to bit changing won't be a easy. The router will of course, be inside these rails and the Z axis movement will be on the right side as you look at it in these pics. These show some progress with the front rail and the trollies for the Y axis. Here are a couple of photo's of the build so far. If I get a chance, I will draw up a little something to help visualize my intent. Most of the ones I have looked at are behind the router near the Y lead screw. That hopefully shouldn't present a problem.ĭoes anyone foresee any problem with my Z axis ball screw and motor being in the center between the two Y tracks? Off to one side if looking straight on from the long end of the X. The only diffeence other than the distance apart between the X and Y will be that the ball screw will be on one side only. I have some small THK rails for the Z axis. There seems to be enough roon for everything. I will be using a PC 690 router in the Z. I think this might yeild the best results. I am making an identical one for the front of the gantry. I have also decided to make my Y axis similar to the X. I normally just cut brass with it, so I hadn't seen a problem with that. I can see that I will have to work on it some. I had that one tuned already, but never really did much to this one. I had anothet ML that I sold to my Father in Law. What I had to do was to adjust everything tighter than normal to keep the carriage from moving out of the way instead of cutting. Only four more turnings in hardened rod, though. I did use carbide cutters, but I think this was actually more than what is recommended to be cutting with a ML. It was all my little mini lathe could do to get it milled down right. I have the ball screw milled for the x axis. I now have the machine back to where it was before I ordered the ball screws. About a 50-50 shot as to it being a keeper. So.two absolutely great tools and two returns. It cuts any grade aluminum that I have tried. It is small, but don't let its size fool ya. The other Ryobi tool that I do own is the 9" bandsaw. This was a biscuit joiner and a 16" scroll saw. I am on my second one, because my Father in Law had to have mine after he seen what it is capable of.Īnyway, I have had to return a couple of Ryobi tools. High precision that you do not find with many of the lower end tablesaws. The BT tablesaws are standout as far as design and cost go. If I was going to be cutting a lot of plate, I might look into a specila blade, but this blade did do a fine job.Īs for Ryobi tools, I really have mixed feelings about them. I don't recall what the temper was on the 3/4" plate. This isn't real soft, but not the hardest either. I had a popup camper while over there and for the life of me, can't recall the connector type.Īnyway, I think these will fill the bill for my needs. Don't think these are available outside the US. About three bucks each at a local auto parts store. They are the four wire Hoppy connectors used for hooking up the lights on a trailer. I was reading a thread somewhere at CNC zone the other day and a fella was looking for some connectors that could be used repeatably for the motors. I did get a makeshift tap made out of some of the 5/8"-8 acme rod. I had bought some square brass nuts to use, but these really seem to have too much slop for my liking. It is amazing now how well it glides being as heavy as it is. Now the gantry will roll the entire length of the x axis with just a slight push. A couple were not dead center with the brass bushings, so I bored a larger hole in alignment with the bushings. ![]() I had them threaded into a tapped hole in the aluminum angle. I redid the bolts that hold my bearings in. I did get a little more done on my gantry.
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |
AuthorWrite something about yourself. No need to be fancy, just an overview. ArchivesCategories |